Hair Texture Types Explained: Beyond the TikTok Trend

You've probably seen the viral TikTok trend where everyone is trying to figure out their curl type. With so much information online, it's no wonder people are confused.

At Ippodaro Natural Salon in San Antonio, we're here to clear up the confusion and help you understand what your hair is actually telling you. From straight to wavy, curly, and coily, knowing your true hair type is about more than fitting into a category. It's the foundation for choosing the right products, creating a routine that works, and keeping your hair healthy.

Understanding your hair goes beyond what you see in the mirror. Your curl pattern is only one piece of the puzzle. Factors like hair density, porosity, texture, elasticity, and your daily habits all influence how your hair behaves and what it needs to thrive.

Let's move beyond the social media confusion and build real hair literacy, so you can confidently care for your hair based on science, not just trends.

Understanding the Four Hair Types

Now that we've cleared up some of the social media confusion, let's take a look at what the science actually says.

Hair is generally classified into four primary types: Type 1 (straight), Type 2 (wavy), Type 3 (curly), and Type 4 (coily). Within each category are subtypes—A, B, and C—that describe how loose or tight the natural wave or curl pattern is.

But what determines these differences? It all begins beneath the surface. The shape of your hair follicle influences the pattern your hair grows into, while the structure of each strand, how easily your scalp's natural oils travel down the hair shaft, and your hair's ability to retain moisture all affect how your hair looks, feels, and behaves.

Straight Hair (Type 1)

• Pattern & Structure: Straight hair lies flat from root to tip with no natural wave or curl pattern. It grows from round hair follicles and features a circular cross-sectional fiber shape .

• Moisture & Oil Distribution: Because the strand has no bends or spirals, natural oils produced by the scalp (sebum) move down the hair shaft easily .This gives straight hair high natural shine, but also makes it prone to oiliness and product buildup.

• Here are some really great product recommendations for straight hair types
  • OWAY volumizing hair bath 
  • Atomy Scalp Care shampoo
  • Amika Volumizing shampoo
  • Amika perk up Dry Shampoo
  • Oway flux potion 
  • OWay Frequest Use hair bath
  • Oway Glossy Nectar
  • Oway Sebum Hair bath

Subtypes:

• 1A: Very fine, soft, and silky; struggles to hold a curl 

• 1B: Medium thickness with more volume and body; holds styled curls better

• 1C: Coarse and thick; resistant to styling, but rarely frizzy.

Wavy Hair (Type 2)

• Pattern & Structure: Wavy hair forms a distinct "S" shape and sits on the spectrum between straight and curly hair 

• Moisture & Oil Distribution: It maintains a balanced amount of natural oil compared to tighter curl types .While easy to style, wavy hair is particularly prone to frizz in humid conditions.

• Here are some really great product recommendations for wavy hair types
  • Oway Sea salt spray 
  • Oway Thermal Detangling Spray 
  • Routine Dirty Hipster Conditioner
  • AG Liquid Effects Medium Hold Weightless Styling Gel 
  • Amika Hyrdo Rush Conditioner
  • Amika Hydro Rush Shampoo
  • Amika Power Hour Curl Refreshing Spray

Subtypes:

• 2A: Fine, tousled texture with loose, gentle S-waves.

• 2B: Defined S-waves starting from mid-length; higher body and prone to frizz 

• 2C: Thick, coarse S-waves starting at the root; borders on loose curls.

Curly Hair (Type 3)

• Pattern & Structure: Curly hair forms bouncy, well-defined spiral ringlets or corkscrews . It grows from hook-shaped hair follicles and has an elliptical cross-sectional shape.

• Moisture & Oil Distribution: The twists along the hair shaft make it difficult for natural oils to reach the ends. As a result, curly hair is naturally drier, prone to frizz, and reflects light unevenly, giving it less surface shine than straight hair.

Subtypes:

• 3A: Loose, shiny spiral curls (roughly sidewalk-chalk-sized in diameter).

• 3B: Springy, voluminous spirals (marker-sized in diameter).

• 3C: Tight corkscrews (pencil-sized in diameter); very prone to dryness .

• Here are some really great product recommendations for curly hair types

Coily Hair (Type 4)

• Pattern & Structure: Coily hair consists of densely packed, tight S-pattern or sharp-angled Z-pattern coils . It grows from hook-shaped follicles and has the most flattened, highly elliptical fiber shape.

• Moisture, Shrinkage & Fragility: Scalp oils struggle to travel down tight coils, making Type 4 the drier and most fragile hair type. It experiences significant shrinkage (up to 75%) as it dries.

• Evolutionary Function: Research shows that tightly curled hair provides a thermoregulatory advantage by insulating the scalp against solar radiation while minimizing water loss from sweat .

• Here are some really great product recommendations for coily hair types
  • Atomy Absolute Shampoo
  • Atomy Absolute Conditioner 
  • AG curl Refresh Definer Silicone Free Soft Hold Styling Cream
  • Oway Rebuild M+ Hair bath
  • Oway Rebuild M+ Serum 
  • Curlstate Replensih Moisturizing Leave in Conditioner 

Subtypes:

• 4A: Dense, tightly coiled S-pattern with visible definition (pen-sized).

• 4B: Sharp Z-pattern with angled bends; less defined pattern with high shrinkage.

• 4C: Densely packed, tight coils with little to no visible pattern; grows outward and requires intense moisture.

Fun Fact

Did you know your curls are nature's built-in sun protection?

Tightly curled hair does more than create beautiful texture. It actually helps shield your scalp from the sun. The shape of curly and coily hair creates space between your scalp and the hair's surface, helping reduce heat from direct sunlight while allowing air to circulate more easily.

Even more fascinating? Research suggests tightly curled hair helps the body stay cooler by reducing heat gain from the sun and requiring less sweat to regulate temperature. Nature designed curls with a purpose!

Just another reminder that every hair type has unique strengths, and understanding them is the first step to caring for your hair the healthiest way possible.

Type 4 Hair: Strong in Beauty, Delicate in Nature

One of the biggest misconceptions about Type 4 hair is that because it looks full and voluminous, it must also be the strongest. In reality, the opposite is often true.

The beautiful coils and tight zigzag patterns found in Type 4 hair create more bends along each strand. These natural curves become points where the hair is more vulnerable to breakage, making Type 4 hair one of the most delicate hair types when it isn't properly cared for.

Another unique characteristic is shrinkage. It's completely normal for Type 4 hair to appear much shorter than its actual length. In fact, some curl patterns can shrink by as much as 75% as they dry. While it may seem like your hair isn't growing, it's often simply showcasing the incredible elasticity of tightly coiled hair.

Understanding Porosity

Now that you know your hair type, here's something that surprises many people: your curl pattern doesn't tell the whole story.

One of the biggest factors in choosing the right hair care routine is understanding your hair's porosity, or simply put, how well your hair absorbs and holds onto moisture.

Think of your hair like a sponge. Some hair absorbs water slowly, some absorbs it just right, and some soaks it up quickly but loses that moisture just as fast. Knowing your porosity helps explain why a product that works wonders for someone else may not work the same for you.

Low Porosity

Low-porosity hair has a tightly sealed outer layer, making it harder for moisture to get in. Once it does, however, it tends to stay hydrated for longer.

Medium Porosity

This is considered the "sweet spot." Hair absorbs moisture easily, holds onto it well, and is generally easier to manage and style.

High Porosity

High-porosity hair has a more open outer layer, often from natural genetics or repeated heat and chemical services. It absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it quickly, which can leave hair feeling dry, frizzy, or more prone to breakage.

Try These At-Home Porosity Tests

 The Spray Test
Lightly mist clean, dry hair with water.

• Water sits on top? Your hair is likely low porosity.
• Water slowly absorbs? You probably have medium porosity.
• Water disappears almost immediately? Your hair may be high porosity.

The Water Glass Test
Place one clean strand of hair into a glass of room-temperature water.

• Floats near the top? Low porosity
• Slowly settles in the middle? Medium porosity
• Quickly sinks to the bottom? High porosity

It's All in the Shape of the Strand

Have you ever wondered why some hair is naturally straight while other hair forms waves, curls, or tight coils? The answer starts beneath the surface.

Every strand of hair has its own shape, and that shape plays a major role in how your hair behaves. Hair with a rounder strand tends to grow straighter, allowing your scalp's natural oils to travel more easily from root to ends. This often results in hair that appears shinier and smoother.

Hair with a more oval or flatter strand naturally forms waves, curls, or coils. The flatter the strand, the tighter the curl pattern tends to be. These beautiful bends and curves also make it more difficult for natural oils to travel the full length of the hair, which is why curly and coily hair often needs extra moisture and hydration.

Why This Matters

Understanding the shape of your hair helps explain why every hair type has different needs. It's not about having "good" or "bad" hair. It's about learning how your hair naturally functions so you can care for it in the healthiest way possible.

At Ippodaro Natural Salon, we believe healthy hair starts with understanding your unique texture. When you work with your hair's natural design instead of against it, you can create a routine that enhances shine, improves moisture, and supports long-term hair health. Need more guidance in how to properly take care of your strands? Book a FREE consultation with one of our hair healers.